Almost Epic

If the swell had just come in a bit different.
Cause boy it had the size, just not the form as most of the large sets were close outs.
Yesterday, it was even bigger than the other day.
I went over to the other side of the park, so I could get a little closer:

It was breaking oh about a hundred yards out.
I was standing on the jetty and actually got covered by water once cause it was sort of boiling on the inside:

Well I wanted to get closer.
If you squint yer eyeballs, and look at that other point in the background of the photo above, you'll see where I went.
Point Panics:

I don't why they call it Point Panics, but I suppose if you are one of them dudes in left hand corner and see a wave like that coming at you, well I guess you might get a bit worried.
Point Panics is body surfers only:

Crazy dudes!
Like jumping off a roof!

It was breaking a little cleaner there but the large sets were still closing out.
No one was catching them waves.
The jumbos I mean.
I gotta say, it's been a while since I've seen surf this large on the south shore.
If the swell had come in from a different direction, the larger waves might have been ridable.
All in all though, I don't think anyone was complaining.
Almost epic is just as good as epic.
If you know what I mean.

Instrument of Death

Surfs up!
Okay, I don't surf, but it's still a big thing over in these parts.
Summer time is when storms from down in the south bring in a well, south swell.
Like a really large swell.
Second one so far this summer.
Folks do anything to get to the beach:

I went out this morning but it was still small and the tide was sort of low.
So I waited until the afternoon to go back and take pictures.
More on this later.
When I did make it back, it was firing off!

Usually on the south side, or town side of the island, the surf hardly gets over 4 feet.
That is until the summer swells hit.
Folks were diving in:

Check out the wave building in the background.
It was mostly overhead with some mackers coming in every once in a while.
Some were just happy to watch:

Like me.
Dangerous stuff.
It wasn't even crowded out there.
Even surfers know their limits.

Here's a crop of one of them bombs.
Check out the dude making it over the top on the right.
His board has got to be at least 6 feet long.
That's a 12 footer from the front!
Lemme tell you, if I was out there I'd probably drown.
Huh?
Instrument of death?
Oh yes.
The Instrument of Death:

Well while I was waiting for the swell to get bigger, I decided to haul out the ole Dedacciai and go out for a spin.
You know, to test the legs.
It's been over a year don't you know.
I damn near died!
After going around the block!
I am so ashamed.
I got back all rubber legged and then I got hit by a dose of Dehydration Induced Low Blood Pressure Syndrome(DILBPS).
Once I got off the bicycle, I got all light headed and started to see some snow.
I got upstairs and had to lie down for like two hours before I was recovered.
Anyways, at least I went for ride.
Sort of.
Anyways, the swell is supposed to be bigger tomorrow so I'll probably stop by the beach again.
Maybe Waikiki.
I also dug out my bicycle shorts.
What does that mean?
More on this later.