Thursday, June 6, 2013

Almost Epic

If the swell had just come in a bit different.
Cause boy it had the size, just not the form as most of the large sets were close outs.
Yesterday, it was even bigger than the other day.
I went over to the other side of the park, so I could get a little closer:

















It was breaking oh about a hundred yards out.
I was standing on the jetty and actually got covered by water once cause it was sort of boiling on the inside:

















Well I wanted to get closer.
If you squint yer eyeballs, and look at that other point in the background of the photo above, you'll see where I went.
Point Panics:

















I don't why they call it Point Panics, but I suppose if you are one of them dudes in left hand corner and see a wave like that coming at you, well I guess you might get a bit worried.
Point Panics is body surfers only:

















Crazy dudes!
Like jumping off a roof!

















It was breaking a little cleaner there but the large sets were still closing out.
No one was catching them waves.
The jumbos I mean.
I gotta say, it's been a while since I've seen surf this large on the south shore.
If the swell had come in from a different direction, the larger waves might have been ridable.
All in all though, I don't think anyone was complaining.
Almost epic is just as good as epic.
If you know what I mean.

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